It seems like great adventures always start with a great story, so let me tell you the story that started this adventure and you can decide how not so great this story is. Many of you know that every 4th of July my folks have their college friends to the house for a few days in a kind of reunion for everyone. This largely consists of golf, drinking, Balderdash, and often lengthy discussion of the true identity of Golden Bells. It’s sometimes hard for all the kids to make it home for Christmas, but we almost always make it back for the 4th of July. And so I found myself late one night working on my sixteenth glass of wine talking with Ben about where we had both traveled. Eventually the conversation lead us to the conclusion that we both wanted to head to Peru to hike the Inca trail, and if I had only had about half the wine I had we may have booked it that night. However between figuring out each other’s schedule, securing a trail pass (which takes about three months), and my lack of typing and internet skills that night we were not able to pull this all together until almost a year later. And so two weeks ago I was again tossing clothes back in to my pack, charging camera batteries, and calling in favors for someone to watch my house and dog and give me a very early morning lift to Seattle’s International Airport. [Begin Peru Journey]
The Generations Seattle local and former video game designer Matt Harding is back from his third dance tour around the world, this time with a cast of thousands, who have all found the dance within themselves.
This journey took me places I am still trying to comprehend. It tested my knees on countless stairs, tested my lungs at high altitude, proved that I know almost no Spanish, and all to see rocks set in place by a lost civilization. Yet within seconds I was dreaming of living in this place, ready to hand over first and last month’s rent. It’s easy to understand why the Inca worshiped the Sun and Mother Earth, you feel its power all around you, it touches your emotions, your mind quites, and for one small moment in time it all makes sense. Until the Modern man invades, forcing their stories on them, and knowledge is lost, not just for them but for everyone. And so I think again I have a new path to follow, new discoveries to be found, and new knowledge to be gained…
… to Lottie, Emily, Fredy, and of course Ben, thanks so much, you made this journey something very special. If you ever make it to Seattle, WA or Whistler, B.C. you always have a place to stay. I love you all…
… to everyone I met along the way, thanks for your advice, your company, and sharing your experience with me, I’ll remember you always…
The closer I get to understanding where I am and where I am going, the more lost I feel, and so the journey will continue…
"Free yourself and see the world" - phynntravels@comcast.net
It was kind of hard to sleep with my legs still trying to climb step after step, but I managed. We got to sleep in today, in fact I can only recall one other day when this was possible. We got a ride to the airport around 09:30 and left Cusco for Lima where we would squeeze in an afternoon city tour before flying out late that night. We first stopped at Central Reserve Bank of Peru where we were able to view ancient Inca gold. Unfortunately it was downstairs, and every painful step down meant another painful step back up.
Typical city street in Lima.
We then stopped at the city square which showcased the government buildings.
And a nice fountain.
Along with a cathedral.
People were everywhere.
Seems like all major cities are kind of the same except for the language they speak.
I felt safe with these guys on standby, geez, maybe not all major cities are the same.
We then visited this church.
Along with a local school group who were on a field trip. Everyplace that I have been has had uniforms, maybe the US should take note here, that is if they want to stay competitive.
The church was amazing and did not allow any photographs. But even more amazing were the catacombs which lie deep within her belly. This was an amazing labyrinth complete with literally thousands of skeletal remains, yet it still felt very empty. Once again outside we were greated by hundreds of pigeons.
The local YMCA was recruiting for their advanced Tai Chi class with this demonstration.
And then we ended the tour, heading for the airport, grabbing one last Cristal and Cusquena, paying the airport tax, and then clearing customs. It was rather interesting that the line to get in and leave the country were about the same in length, however it took almost twice as long to leave the country then it took to enter it, I never figured that part out. It all happened so fast, we visited native people who lived on manmade islands on the highest lake in the world, trekked a sacred journey created by the ancient ones that was only intended for a few, that offered us views we could have not dreamed of. We made friends we would never forget, and then after a short eight hour flight found ourselves right back where we started. Two guys hanging out in the Atlanta airport, having a drink, talking and laughing.
We got up today and the stars were still out. There is a checkpoint you must clear before you can complete the final two hours of the hike and enter Machu Picchu. This checkpoint is closed until 05:30, and with everyone’s goal of watching the sunrise at Machu Picchu a line starts to form early. We made our way down to the checkpoint with only the light from our torches lighting the way. We were actually pretty close to the front, however there was one large group in front of us that I feared would slow our progress. It was dark and hard to see the ground below your feet, but luck was on our side. A slightly larger American woman who was highly skilled at both whining and seeking the attentions of others took an early tumble, twisting her ankle, which held up her entire group, as the five of us marched past, pressing on to the Sun Gate. We made good time and did not see many others on the trail. About a half hour in and it was light enough to see without the aid of a torch. About an hour and a half and we were at the Sun Gate, climbing the very steep stairs to the top, so steep in fact, that you could use your hands without bending over.
Just below us we would discover Machu Picchu, and in plenty of time to watch the sun come up.
And there it was, carved and resting right in the mountain, the Lost City of the Incas, I was filled with emotion. Built around 1450 but then forgotten and hidden from the world until discovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, and now, discovered by us.
So far away from everything and everyone, I think I finally began to understand this, and understand the journey of the Inca Trail. We were still about 30 minutes away form it, but I was already blow away by its impressive size, location, and the amazing scenery that surrounded it, not even in my dreams could I have pictured this. And I am sorry to say this, but not even the most powerful camera could capture its spirit.
You have to visit this place and see if for yourself as I could never describe it, and if you really want to understand the magic and power of this place you must make the four day journey yourself.
We made our way down to Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate as the sun was getting closer to making an appearance.
The locals also came to watch this amazing event as well.
And then a shard of light sliced through the air illumining the top of the “Temple of the Moon”, the mountain behind Machu Picchu which you can also climb if you have an extra three to four hours.
This has to be my favorite picture. All of us having successfully made this amazing journey without injury to view the most beautiful sunrise I have ever seen, again filled with emotion. What a great family to travel with.
We had a few minutes to rest before we would head down a little and drop off our packs so we could more easily explore this land, as well find out more about this place from Fredy.
We checked our packs as the sun continued to rise.
We looked back at where we had come, in the upper left corner you can see another mountain pass, this is where the Sun Gate was that we passed through earlier that morning, then traversed across to the city.
We checked our packs and encountered a swarm of “Cheaters”. These are tourists and not travelers, and while I admire the fact that they came to see this place I feel sorry for them as they will never understand it.
“Cheaters” are easily identified by their walking sticks and light packs filled with water bottles and energy bars. It’s easy to identify the tourists from the travelers just by observing their walk. A tourist navigates the place with little difficulty, while the traveler, who is often in much better shape and younger, stumbles around the area, often letting out groans and sighs of pain as they navigate the steps throughout the town.
Fredy walked us around the town giving us insight to its secrets. Every time you turn around you find something else, something more beautiful. It only took five minutes before I was wishing that I could live here. How could you not be inspired by waking up every day to these views.
The town had over 140 structures that it’s over 700 citizens occupied.
Many of which had running water all the time. They created channels from ground water and with primitive pluming routed it to their houses.
Terraces for farming.
Walking around town I again wondered if there was someplace for rent here.
The mountains off in the distance. Fredy also told us that they recently found another ruin on the near mountain in this picture that has yet to be excavated.
Many of the widows were aligned so that they would be informed of the summer and winter solstice.
More terraces.
I was very impressed with this part having seen this same concept demonstrated many times before, including one marginal performance of a pin drop in the Mormon Tabernacle Church. This was nothing short of amazing, if you shouted, or better yet, clapped, the sound bounced back clear as it was originally heard. It really was the most amazing demonstration of this I have seen, and in such an open area.
The Inca were great model builders and with great accuracy to scale. At first this looks like a rock, however if you take in to account the whole picture it actually is a model os the surrounding mountains.
As does this rock behind the stone wall, you can see the three peaks as well as the second rock behind the first to represent the mountain off to the far right.
After Fredy showed us the highlights we had some time to explore on our own and make our own discoveries.
If you understand this place it will change your life, you think about where you are and where you are going, sometimes you fall, sometimes you get up, sometimes you cry, and sometimes you laugh, it all starts to have meaning and becomes whole.
Later that day we would catch a bus that would traverse the many switchbacks down the mountain to Machu Picchu Town. The train sounded like a great way to get back to Cusco.
We got seats on the Vista Dome car which sounded like a good idea at the time. However if you spent the last four days hiking through the mountains you aren’t going to see much of anything of interest and should skip the dome cars.
We would find out that the train was actually quite slow, slower than by car, but faster than by foot. At least we could sit down and enjoy a nice cold beer.
When we got close to Cusco the train also descended down using switchbacks, but rather then wide turns on each end, the train would actually move forward, wait for the switch, then move backwards, wait for the switch, and on, and on, rocking back and forth. Once at the train station I negotiated a ride to our hotel for five Sol(s) with a guy who said he was a taxi driver. However his car was lacking in everything that you would find in an actual cab, but I knew we were close and there were a lot of people out and about so I felt fairly safe, plus I was tired. We got to the hotel in Cusco without issue, showered, found real beds, and reflected on the journey.
