Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Hiking over two more Mountain Passes to Arrive at the Final Camp Site

Up early and hiking in time to watch the sunrise. Today would be the most beautiful part of the trek. The scenery all around us was always amazing but today the actual trail really stood out. We would be passing through a number of different environments from jungle to mountain, and on to the cloud forest in our ten hour journey.


Looking back at Dead Woman’s Pass, this picture shows her off better.


Right off the bat we started heading up to the second pass which would top out around 13,000 feet.




About half way up we stopped at the Runkuracay ruins. This was believed to a kind of way post for couriers. In fact, it was said that the Inca king often enjoyed fresh fish even though he was far inland. This was possible because of the Chaski, who were highly trained runners that were stationed every 6,000 to 8,000 feet along trails. They would run in between each of their stations passing along messages and items from Chaski to Chaski. An early version of the Post Office.


Runkuracay also provided a view of the Scared Inca Trail. Because this trail was scared the Inca also controlled its use and only let certain people on it.




Fredy shows us how some stone carvings were use to indicate that travelers were welcome. The hat was used to help illustrate the friendly face.


After a little rest we again set out, hiking up towards the second pass.


Looking back on Runkurakay.


Heading up in to the clouds, or what the Inca called Cloud Forest.


It was starting to get a little eerie but also very magical.






And then we can to the top of the second pass. Amazing views, we had been hiking for a few days and you know you are tired, however when you see things like this and feel its power, it’s easy to continue on. I love the mountains.








Then it was again time to head back down the other side.


Everyone was still ticking.


On the way down we came to the first of two tunnels that the Inca had made. I’m not sure why they added this feature, but it was very cool.


More amazing views.


On the way down from the second pass we stopped at the Sayaqmarka ruins. This is a town on a steep hill.






The civilization was so respectful of each other that they did not need locks, only a simple log between these two holes was enough to information others to “please don't enter while I’m gone”.




We continued in to the clouds.


A waterfall off in the distance, beautiful.


Off to the third and final mountain pass, and the lowest one at only 12,000 feet.




The Urubamba River that we saw at the start of the trail days ago, and were now reunited with it.


Have to be careful, one wrong step, or a small stumble, and it is game over.


The local Humming bird.


The Phuyupatamarka ruins just on the other side of the third mountain pass await us.


Fredy coasting down the many stairs.


Path coming down the third pass to the Phuyupatamarka ruins. Every step gets us closer and closer, now if my knees only hold out.


The Phuyupatamarka ruins are also known as the “Town above the Clouds”.








After a short stop at the ruins we continued our descent going down over 4,000 feet.


My knees were killing me coming down and the number one thought in my mind was “Please don’t let me get hurt before the Bike Park opens in Whistler”. I figure if I’m going to wreck I want to at least either add a bike or pair of skis in to the mix, and be much closer to a bar then I am now.




And in to another tunnel heading towards our final camp site.




This camp site was a bit different in that there was a kind of lodge nearby that had hot showers for five Sol(s). Luckily we arrived early and the line was not too bad, unluckily we found another toilet without any form of a toilet seat. This was the first shower in days, and you would think it would feel great, but it was just OK, the showers themselves were quite dirty, but now I was clean. We ate another great dinner. With this being the last night they made tons of amazing food, so much for "waste not, want not", whatever that means. Our porters would head out early the next morning so that night we tipped them, the price included this picture.


The nearby lodge also served beer! The lodge was a dump run by a rather unpleasant woman, which I could not figure out. For what they were charging for a beer this place should have been a lot nicer or if she was not improving the place she must be pocketing a ton of money, in which I would have thought she would have been a lot happier. But the beers tasted great and the company was awesome. Hey Fredy, slow down buddy, you still need to get us to Machu Picchu tomorrow.


We hung out that night talking, laughing, and learning. We kept it pretty tame as we were getting up at 03:30 in the morning so that we could reach Machu Picchu to watch the sunrise. It took us a bit to fall asleep as the slight beer buzz seemed to add humor to just about everything. I’ll spare you the extra reading because if you are not drinking now you really won’t be that funny. A few of our porters joined us and we bought them a beer. I asked one of them to take this picture, and it was the first picture that he has ever taken.


This would be the last night of the trip that I would have to sleep on the ground. I also took one last look at the amazingly clear sky.